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Jl. Bintaro Utama Blok 3A
In front of Ruko Multiguna
Sector 3A – Bintaro
Jakarta Selatan
Tel. 737 8810
For all its modern lines, aesthetically pleasing lighting and clean, white-toned interior that’s slightly reminiscent of Penang Bistro, there is still a distinct Padang tenor to this whole establishment: it’s all in the stacks of food on display behind glass counters and the long benches (the milky matte tabletops notwithstanding). Modernity also comes in the guise of hospitality — the minute you are seated, you will be offered tea and a small bowl of beef rib soup — and quality control: dishes tend to be freshly made so as to avoid re-heating. Unfortunately, this means that by 8pm, they are usually out of firm favourites such as ayam pop and the divine ayam panggang (grilled chicken), both made of local (kampung) chicken.
The gulai ayam (chicken curry) recalls the heyday of Sari Ratu when it was just striking out in Ratu Plaza, while the rendang, freshly made at 6pm, scores as highly for tactile stimulation as for flavour. The star, however, is the betakok, a kind of dendeng belado (spicy, sun-dried meat fried with a red chilli concoction) but whose belado is made of sliced green chilli peppers, raw shallots and lime topped with a dollop of coconut cream. Equally solid is the sambel ijo (green chilli sambal), accented with petai (stink beans). The rice is another winner: long-grain, warm and tender, a thing of beauty.
The turmeric-heavy sop buntut (oxtail soup), meanwhile, is pretty good despite its soto-like tendency, while standards such as gulai otak (cow’s brain curry) and terong balado (eggplant tossed in red chilli concoction). House pride sambal pete kalang ayam, chicken innards tossed in chilli sauce spiked with stink beans, while redolent of complex Chinese flavours, may not be spicy enough for hard core Padang fans. The manager, an ex-Sari Bundo man who seems apprised of the ins and outs of the Padang restaurant business, is a graceful host as well as engaging company.
Price range: Around Rp 114,000 for 4
Operating hours: 08:00 – 22:00
Dress code: casual
Atmosphere: modern Padang
Alcohol: N/A
Cash only
Reviewed: January 2008
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